Fabrication: Initial Cutting & Setup
Once I had the design sketched out on the LVL I began by making relief cuts in the back face which would make the concave curved cut easier.
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These Relief Cuts Will Make Cutting The Rear Curve Easier. |
I did all my cutting on the band saw. This was the first project I made using my new Carter Guides. I wont say they turn my crappy Ridgid band saw into a super star, but they do make it usable and predictable. For that, I give them credit and appreciation.
Once I had made the relief cuts, it occurred to me that a square block would be much easier to clamp and work then a curved one. Thankfully I thought of this when I did and left the back square (if slotted) for the time being.
Next, I cut out the L shape on the inside face. This too was easily done on the band saw using the Carter Guide. Though an L because the back and base are at 90° to each other, they are both reclined slightly to hold the bottle at a slight back tilt.
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The Basic L. |
Once the L was cut out of the inside face, I got ready to sculpt the concave face of the back. Having picked up an ArborTech Turbo Plane and a Saburrtooth Extra Coarse donut wheel since my last power sculpted project, I began the sculpting on a practice piece. When I was done I had tried the Turbo Plane, Saburrtooth wheel, my Festool RAS 115 and my medium grit Kutzall wheel. While the Turbo Plane and Saburrtooth have some potential and the RAS 115 is a great tool for finer shaping, I ended up preferring the moderate material removal rate, controllability and smooth resulting finish of the Kutzall. To paraphrase Paul Lemiski, the Kutzall is awesome.
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The Saburrtooth Extra Coarse Proved Too Aggressive. |
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